Here we go again. Back to Europe! I know… boring! Well, I hope not!
Why Europe again? We received an invitation from a famous clothing designer from Estonia. You may have heard of her: Anneli.
No last name. I guess when you get super famous like Anneli, you don’t need a last name. Similar to Madonna, Cher, Pelé, Bono, Prince, Sting, Adele, Shakira, Rihanna, Sia, and Seal.
With the exception of Pelé, most famous people who are known by only a first name became famous through their musical abilities.
Similar to Pelé, Anneli is an exception. All of her fame comes from her clothing design. Simply Google “Anneli fashion designer” and see what shows up.
Back to the trip. By happenstance, we are close friends with Anneli. Actually, she follows my travel blog, and she thought there was an opportunity to show us her home country of Estonia.
No arm-twisting was needed. Anneli asked, and we agreed. Now, as you read this, we are somewhere over the Atlantic heading to Helsinki, where hopefully we will make our connecting flight. We have only 55 minutes to clear customs and immigration and make our flight to Tallinn, Estonia.
There will be more once we are in Estonia, which will be my 97th country/territory.
Here are five fun facts about Estonia:
- Almost half the country is covered by forests. About 50% of Estonia is forest, making it one of Europe’s greenest countries. There are thousands of hiking trails, bogs, and abundant wildlife, including moose, lynx, and brown bears.
- It’s one of the world’s most digital countries. Estonia is famous for its advanced digital society. Citizens can vote online, file taxes in minutes, access healthcare records electronically, and even start a business online through its e-Residency program.
- Skype was developed in Estonia. Although Skype became an international company, much of the software was created by Estonian engineers. Estonia has since become a major hub for technology startups and innovation.
- The Singing Revolution helped win independence. Between 1987 and 1991, hundreds of thousands of Estonians gathered to sing patriotic songs in peaceful demonstrations. This movement became known as the Singing Revolution and played a key role in Estonia regaining independence from the Soviet Union.
- Estonia has over 2,000 islands. Despite being a relatively small country, Estonia has more than 2,300 islands in the Baltic Sea. Many are uninhabited, while larger islands like Saaremaa and Hiiumaa are known for their medieval history, windmills, lighthouses, and beautiful coastlines.
We made it to Country #97: Estonia!
So here’s the question: What do you call folks who would go to this much effort just to see you?
- Good friends?
- Stalkers?
- Groupies?
- Maybe all of the above!
We first met Hot Spot in a sushi bar in a small village outside Tokyo, Japan, back in 2017. Today marked the eighth country where we’ve reconnected.
We took a Bolt ride to Tallinn’s Old Town, where we rented an apartment for the next two days.
Bolt is similar to Uber and is very popular in Eastern Europe. In fact, it was founded in Estonia.
We spent the afternoon catching up with our old friends…or stalkers…while enjoying some local food and beer.
Later, we wandered through the Old Town and, of course, stopped for ice cream before calling it a night.
Tomorrow is the big day, we finally get to meet Anneli, so we need a good night’s rest.
We got a note from Anneli late last night.
Change of plans. I have to meet with some Italian clothing manufacturers in the morning, so how about we meet at the Viru Gate at 12:30?
What could we say but, “OK.”
FYI: The Viru Gate (often called the Viru Gates) is the most famous entrance to Tallinn’s Old Town and one of the city’s best-known landmarks.
Originally built in the 14th century as part of Tallinn’s medieval defensive walls, the gate was much larger than what you see today. It once included multiple gatehouses, thick walls, a drawbridge, and defensive towers to protect the city.
At 9:00 a.m., we met up with Hot Spot and the Big Chill at Must Puudel for breakfast. The best part? They didn’t look at me like I had two heads when I ordered a five-egg omelet.
Anneli suggested we visit St. Nicholas’ Church, which is both a church and a museum.
The highlight is the glass elevator they installed in the bell tower.
The views from the top of the tower gave us a bird’s-eye view of the city.
After the church visit, we walked through the Old Town, taking in the buildings and architecture, much of which had been rebuilt after being bombed by the Nazis in 1944.
We stumbled upon a farmers market that is held most days on the edge of town.
At 12:30, we finally got to meet Anneli face to face. It was like we had been friends for years.
Her 14-year-old nephew joined her, and we learned that he would be traveling with us during the time we would be together.
Anneli took us to a section of town just beyond the farmers market that had been home to factories when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union. Today, those factories have been transformed into artists’ studios, restaurants, and shops.
We spent a few hours roaming the area, enjoying the cool summer weather.
We even stopped into a few studios that proudly displayed some of Anneli’s top designs.
We will be meeting more of Anneli’s family later this evening, so we decided to take a short siesta before dinner.
Dinner was at a fantastic restaurant called Farm, only a five minute walk from our apartment. Joining us were Anneli’s brother, sister-in-law, cousin, and, of course, Paul.
Tomorrow we depart for Pärnu, where Anneli was raised.
P.S. I tried to get photos of Anneli with some of her designs, but no luck. She is very humble when it comes to her work.
This morning, we head to Pärnu. We’ll be meeting Anneli at the Tallinn Bus Station at 11:30 to catch our 12:00 p.m. bus.
Before leaving for the bus station, we had breakfast at Big Chill and Hot Spot.
We then took a walk over to Linnahall.
Originally called the V. I. Lenin Palace of Culture and Sport, it was built specifically for the 1980 Olympics to host opening ceremonies and cultural events, concerts, ice sports, and other large public gatherings associated with the Games.
Its low, stepped design was intended to preserve the views of the sea from Tallinn’s Old Town. Although it became one of Estonia’s largest entertainment venues, it fell into disrepair after Estonia regained independence in 1991. In recent years, it has gained international attention as a filming location, including scenes from Christopher Nolan’s Tenet.
Visiting Linnahall felt like stepping into a modern-day relic. The massive concrete structure is covered in graffiti, and much of it is in need of repair. Even so, it remains an impressive reminder of Tallinn’s Soviet past and its role in the 1980 Olympics.
It was now time to head to the bus station to catch our bus to Pärnu.
More on Estonia once we arrive in Pärnu and Anneli’s family home.
Pärnu
The bus ride from Tallinn to Pärnu was as smooth as could be expected. What we did not expect, however, was high-speed internet for the entire trip. Then again, I probably should not have been surprised since Estonia is one of the most connected countries in the world.
We arrived at Anneli’s family home at 1:30 PM. The bus dropped us off just a few hundred meters from the house.
As we walked, Anneli gave us some perspective on what life was like growing up in the Soviet Union.
The area where the bus dropped us off is now a shopping center, but during Anneli’s childhood it was a military base.
The lake we walked by used to catch fire because of all the chemicals and oil the military dumped into it.
The area we covered during the 15-minute walk from the bus stop to Anneli’s family home had been farmland owned by Anneli’s grandparents prior to 1939. Once the Soviets began occupying Estonia, they seized the land and sent Anneli’s grandfather to Siberia.
Today, much of that land is covered with Soviet-style apartment buildings.
I apologize for not taking more pictures, but hearing these heart-wrenching stories distracted me from reaching for my camera.
Once we arrived at Anneli’s family home, her mom prepared a traditional Estonian lunch of fish, boiled potatoes, and cucumber and tomato salad. It was an excellent meal.
We are staying at the Hedon Hotel & Spa for the next three nights. Keith, a family friend who joined us for lunch, was gracious enough to give us a ride to the hotel.
Pärnu is a popular beach town where both locals and visitors from abroad come to vacation.
We rented bikes since they are an easy way to get around, and the town has well-marked, protected bike paths throughout.
The next morning, before meeting up with Anneli, we took a short bike ride to check out the beaches. We stumbled upon “Ladies Beach,” where Anneli was about to take part in a local tradition.
Margaret said, “When in Rome,” and the two ladies scurried down the beach while I held their clothes.
You may be able to spot them off in the distance.
Once the ladies had finished their fun in the water and were properly clothed again, we walked into Pärnu’s Old Town to grab a coffee and enjoy a traditional Estonian pastry.
We learned that many Estonian cities and towns have a mascot. In Pärnu, it is the elephant, with statues and murals appearing throughout the city.
We continued our walk through town, visiting the church where Anneli was baptized, along with several other places that were important during her childhood.
Hearing a firsthand account of what it was like to grow up in the Soviet Union under a communist system—and then to experience Estonia regaining its independence and eventually joining the European Union—was both fascinating and deeply moving.
Next on the agenda was a boat ride, giving us a different perspective of the area from the water rather than from the land.
For Anneli, however, this trip was not a vacation. She had some fabric shopping to do for her upcoming fall fashion collection.
Unfortunately, she asked me not to photograph the fabrics she purchased. Some of her competitors might see what she is buying, which could hurt her competitive advantage.
At that point, Anneli had to leave us to get back to work. We spent the late afternoon exploring by bike before calling it a day.
I don’t think I mentioned this earlier, but our body clocks are completely out of sync—not because of jet lag, but because of the 18-plus hours of daylight. Even when the sun goes down for those six hours, it never gets completely dark. Instead, it remains in a constant state of dusk.
At 10:00 PM, it feels like it is only 6:00 PM.
If you’re wondering exactly where Pärnu is, click on this link to see where we are on the map:
Today, after a nice run and breakfast, Anneli picked us up. Joining her was her nephew, Paul. We were heading about 30 kilometers outside Pärnu for a hike through a pine forest that is also home to one of the many bogs found in Estonia.
The weather so far on this trip has been fantastic, clear skies, cool mornings, and afternoons that warm up just enough.
Today was no different. Perfect weather for a hike in the forest.
After the hike, Anneli asked if we would like to grill dinner at her family’s house. That sounded perfect, so we stopped by the local farmers market to buy fresh fruit, vegetables, and meat for dinner.
As we were driving to drop off the groceries at Anneli’s mom’s house, Anneli asked if we had ever had an Estonian hotdog.
Of course, our answer was no, but we would love to try one.
After dropping off the groceries, we headed out in search of an Estonian hotdog.
Though I did get a photo of the family house and the Soviet-style apartment buildings that were built on what was once Anneli’s family’s land. The photos I neglected to get yesterday.
We pulled into a Circle K gas station. Yes, the same Circle K you’ll find in many countries around the world.
Anneli explained that you can only get an authentic Estonian hotdog (gas station hotdog) at Estonian gas stations. She went on to tell us it would be the best hot dog I would ever have.
NOT!
As you can see, these Estonian hotdogs come in all types of shapes and sizes.
We dropped Paul back off at his grandma’s house.
As we were going to join Anneli for more fabric shopping, and Paul declined to join us for this adventure.
Dinner at Anneli’s family home was delicious. She grilled all kinds of meats, and we had fresh vegetables to go along with them.
The best part? Anneli’s high school teacher joined us for dinner. We heard some great stories about Anneli and her high school antics, none of which can be repeated here!
On to the islands tomorrow. More to come.
The Islands, Estonia
As mentioned earlier, Estonia has more than 2,000 islands, most of which are uninhabited. Today we would be visiting one of the largest.
Family friends of Anneli invited us to spend three nights at their farmhouse.
It was about an hour’s drive to the ferry. The car ferry was one of the largest I have ever been on, carrying hundreds of vehicles.
The ferry travels from the small mainland town of Virtsu to the town of Kuivastu on the island of Muhu.
Muhu is not the island where we’ll be staying, but one we pass through on the way.
The island has a petting zoo, and when Anneli was a child, her family would always stop there while traveling to their family friends’ farmhouse.
Of course, that’s what we did.
After visiting the zoo, we continued our journey, crossing a low-level causeway to the island of Saaremaa. Saaremaa is Estonia’s largest island, with a population of about 30,000 people. It covers approximately 2,673 square kilometers (1,032 square miles). Over the centuries, the island has been ruled by the Danes, Germans, Swedes, Russians, and Estonians.
Click here to see the location of Kathryn and Neema’s farmhouse in the town of Orissaare:
We arrived just after 1:00 PM and enjoyed a local lunch of schnitzel and roasted zucchini, a traditional Estonian meal.
It was now time to go dinosaur hunting.
According to Anneli, our resident storyteller, millions and millions of years ago, long before the Ice Age these islands weren’t islands at all, but part of a vast landmass inhabited by dinosaurs.
Then the Ice Age arrived, the dinosaurs disappeared, and massive glaciers carved out what would eventually become these islands.
Since neither of us was around millions of years ago to fact-check the story, we’re sticking with it.
With that history in mind, it made perfect sense that we might find dinosaur fossils in the rocks. So that’s exactly what we set out to do.
We drove to a beach known for its fossils. Armed with our tools, we began searching and quickly “discovered” dinosaur bones that had been waiting millions of years for us to find them.
After our dinosaur hunt, we decided to circumnavigate the island, stopping at several beaches along the way.
Our goal was to reach the end of the earth, also known as Sõrve Lighthouse.
Before reaching the lighthouse, we came upon a massive abandoned building. Anneli explained that after the Soviet Union took control of Estonia, many privately owned farms were consolidated into collective (cooperative) farms. This building is a remnant of that era and serves as a reminder of Estonia’s Soviet past.
We arrived at the lighthouse around 6:00 PM, but with the sun not setting until well after 10:00 PM, there was still plenty of daylight left.
We decided to climb the lighthouse stairs for a bird’s-eye view of the island.
It was now time to head back to the farmhouse, driving along the opposite side of the island.
Along the way we passed through the town of Kuressaare, the largest town on Saaremaa.
Naturally, we had to stop for ice cream. After all, we had worked hard circumnavigating the island and had certainly earned a treat.
We still had another 40-minute drive back to the farmhouse, arriving around 9:00 PM.
There was still plenty of daylight remaining.
Kathryn and Neema gave us a tour of their beautiful property.
They have lived here for 38 years after spending 10 years building the main house. The land is covered with wildflowers, and they also grow a variety of vegetables and berries. In addition, they have apple and cherry trees throughout the property.
It is an absolutely beautiful place, and we feel very fortunate to be staying here.
Time to hit the hay. It has been a long, but wonderful, day.
After a good night’s sleep, we were ready for another day of exploring.
One thing I forgot to mention yesterday is that Kathryn and Neema make their own vodka. They even grow the potatoes they use as the base. And boy, will it grow hair on your chest! I hadn’t had vodka like this since drinking moonshine made in West Virginia years ago.
We left the farmhouse at 9:00 AM and didn’t return until 10:00 PM. These long summer days are very deceiving.
Our first stop was Kuressaare Castle.
A few facts about the castle:
Originally constructed in the late 13th and early 14th centuries by the bishops of the medieval Bishopric of Ösel-Wiek.
A classic Gothic fortress with thick limestone walls, a square keep, corner towers, and a wide defensive moat.
Over the centuries, it was controlled by the Danes, Swedes, and Russians. Despite wars and changing rulers, it has survived remarkably intact.
Today, the castle houses the Saaremaa Museum, with exhibits on the island’s medieval history, the Soviet era, local culture, and archaeology. Visitors can also climb the towers for panoramic views of Kuressaare and the surrounding sea.
I have been to many medieval castles, but this is one of the largest and best-preserved I’ve visited.
After touring the castle, we enjoyed a great lunch followed by some delicious desserts.
Needing a little siesta, we stopped at a secondhand store and bought a few blankets for €3 each. We then found a quiet beach where we stretched out for an afternoon nap.
The weather was still sunny, but the stronger winds made the temperatures feel much cooler.
Once we were rested, it was off to explore the island’s interior. There are countless dirt roads crisscrossing Saaremaa, many of them overgrown and seemingly leading nowhere.
I think we found most of them. Many simply cut through fields or crossed the island from one area to the next.
Every once in a while, we’d stumble upon an old cooperative farm building or an abandoned church.
There were a couple more beaches Anneli wanted to explore before we headed back in search of a restaurant for dinner. She had hoped to find more dinosaur bones, but unfortunately we came up empty-handed.
By 7:00 PM, it was time for the long drive back to Kuressaare for dinner, followed by another long drive to the farmhouse.
It had been a long but excellent day. Tomorrow we head back to the mainland and say goodbye to Anneli.
Off to Tartu, Estonia …. NOT!!! At least not yet.
What is the saying? “The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry.”
Our plan was to head to Tartu, Estonia, on Monday the 21st. The only problem… Monday was the 20th, not the 21st.
After a little investigating, I realized I had used a 2025 calendar to plan the trip instead of a 2026 calendar. So everything was off by a day. The good news? It gave us an extra day with Anneli.
We said our goodbyes to Kathryn, Neema, and KeyKey, the family cat, and headed off to catch the ferry back to Pärnu.
We quickly booked an apartment for the night, and Anneli graciously dropped us off. We used the extra free time to do some laundry, then walked into town and enjoyed a great lunch at a gluten-free, dairy-free restaurant. Who would have thought?
Around 3:00 PM, we got an urgent text from Anneli.
“Paul (her nephew) wants to take you guys to this huge indoor water park.”
I have to admit, we weren’t exactly thrilled with the idea. But when a 14-year-old wants to hang out with a couple of old folks, you don’t say no.
We had an absolute blast! They had the longest, highest water slide I have ever seen.
Check out this video of Margarite mixing it up with the little ones as she came flying down the water slide.
Like I said… an absolute blast.
After the water park, we had a nice dinner in town.
Then we called it a night. It was only 7:00 PM, but after a few late nights, we were more than happy to hit the hay early.
Tomorrow we’ll hopefully be heading to Tartu.
After a great night’s sleep, we headed over to Anneli’s family’s house. Anneli and her mom made us a fantastic traditional Estonian breakfast to help send us off.
Before I forget, many of you have asked where you can view or purchase clothes designed by Anneli. This link will take you to her Instagram page:
Though Anneli is a global brand, in the U.S. there is only one location that carries her custom designs, and that is in Lambertville, New Jersey.
We said our goodbyes to everyone and departed for Tartu, on the eastern side of Estonia near the Russian border.
Our guide, Berit, would first be taking us to Soomaa National Park.
The name “Soomaa” comes from the Estonian language and means “land of bogs.” The park is home to several large raised bogs, including Kuresoo Bog, the largest bog in the country. These bogs are surrounded by forests of pine, spruce, and birch trees, which provide a stunning backdrop to the park’s natural beauty.
Once we arrived at Soomaa National Park, Berit gave us a quick lesson on how to use bog shoes.
We saw that bog shoes were similar to snowshoes, and since we had just been snowshoeing last March in Andorra, we picked up bog shoeing rather quickly.
What a great way to experience a bog. actually walking on it. You get a great sense of the peat that has been decaying for thousands of years, and you can feel the bounce of the spongy surface beneath your feet as you walk across the bog.
Video — Bog shoeing in Soomaa National Park:
We truly enjoyed this unique experience.
We had worked up an appetite, and Berit suggested we stop in Viljandi. Viljandi is a small town about 45 minutes from the national park.
As we departed, we stopped to see a signpost marking the high-water levels and the years those flood levels were reached.
We had lunch at Fellin. What a great lunch it was.
We continued on to Tartu, arriving at 6:00 PM. What a great day!
Before calling it a day, we took a little walk around the city center.
Tomorrow morning, we have a walking tour of Tartu. At 12:30 PM, we will meet up with an old friend. More on that tomorrow.
We woke early for an easy 5-mile run along the river before returning to the hotel for a nice breakfast.
We met our guide at 10:00 a.m. for a 90-minute walking tour.
It was an enjoyable tour. Tartu has had a turbulent history over the centuries. More than 30 different groups or countries have controlled the city over the years. Our guide shared a lot of that history with us. Unfortunately, my small brain couldn’t retain most of the facts.
After the tour, we met up with Emerson. We first met him in Chile back in 2015. He told us, “If you’re ever in Tartu, look me up.” So we did, and we met him for lunch.
When we first met Emerson, he was a ski bum spending his time between Chile and New Zealand, depending on the season. Now he’s back in his homeland working as a tour operator. In fact, over the next 14 days or so, you’ll see the itinerary he put together for us.
After lunch, we toured the Tartu Botanical Garden. It was huge. We spent well over two hours there, and I don’t think we even saw the entire garden.
On the way to the gardens, we passed St. John’s Church. We had learned about it during our morning tour. The church is famous for its more than 1,000 terracotta figurines. We toured the church and even climbed to the top of the bell tower.
As we were leaving the Botanical Garden, Emerson texted us and asked if we’d like to visit his mom and see the area where he grew up. Of course, we said yes. The town is Elva, about a 20-minute drive outside of Tartu.
The main reason for going to Elva was to take Emerson’s dog for a walk in the local forest.
One interesting feature of this forest is that local artists have carved random sculptures throughout the hiking trails.
We had a great time and really enjoyed catching up with Emerson and hearing what we’ve all been doing over the past 11 years.
Emerson dropped us back at our hotel, and we called it a night.
Today was an open day with nothing scheduled, so we decided to walk to the Estonian National Museum.
Along the way, we passed one of the original airport hangars used by the Soviet Union during the occupation.
Then, of course, there was the upside-down house. No explanation needed.
Now for the museum. There were a great number of exhibits covering the history of Estonia.
One temporary exhibit that I found particularly interesting focused on clothing dyes. I was shocked by the environmental impact these products have, especially in today’s world of disposable fashion.
After the museum, we decided to visit the Gunpowder Cellar of Tartu. The reason for our visit was that the pub is in the Guinness Book of World Records for having the highest pub ceilings in the world. The building was once used to store gunpowder, and the tall ceilings were designed to help protect the gunpowder from moisture.
After lunch, we wandered through Supilinn (Soup Town), Tartu’s most atmospheric neighborhood. It is known for its colorful wooden houses and streets named after vegetables, such as Herne (Pea), Oa (Bean), and Kartuli (Potato).
While we enjoyed the walk, it really wasn’t anything to write home about.
You may notice that many of the statues are wearing colorful hats. They are part of the clothing dye exhibition at the museum.
Sometimes Life imitates Art.
Tomorrow we are off to Latvia, my 98th country/territory!
Cesis, Latvia Country / Territory 98
We were picked up at 9:30 AM for our 2.5-hour drive from Tartu to Cesis, Latvia.
One interesting tidbit we saw along the way was that, at one point on the Estonia-Latvia border, the road itself is the border. People living on the right side of the road as you drive south live in Latvia, while those on the left side live in Estonia. Before both countries joined the EU’s Schengen Area, simply crossing the street required passing through border control.
Here are five fun facts about Latvia:
- It is home to one of the widest waterfalls in Europe, Ventas Rumba in Kuldīga, which spans about 249 meters (817 feet) across, although it is only a couple of meters tall.
- Riga’s Art Nouveau architecture is world-famous. The capital has one of the largest and best-preserved collections of Art Nouveau buildings anywhere, especially along Alberta Street.
- Latvia is one of the most forested countries in Europe, with more than half of its land covered by forests.
- The Latvian language is one of the oldest living Indo-European languages, retaining features that linguists believe are close to Proto-Indo-European.
- Riga claims to have displayed one of the first decorated public Christmas trees in Europe, dating back to 1510, although a few other European cities make similar claims.
We reached our home for the next two nights just before noon. Karlamuiza Country Hotel, located just outside Cesis in Gauja National Park, was a wonderful choice. Emerson suggested these accommodations because most of our trip has been spent in towns and cities, and he thought this would be a nice change of pace. He was absolutely correct.
We were greeted by storks nesting just outside our room.
At 1:00 PM, Sigita picked us up for an afternoon tour of Cesis. Celebrating its 832nd year, Cesis is an old town. At the center of the Old Town is the castle, built shortly after the town was founded, but more on that later.
Have you ever heard of the Black Swan Theory? It describes an event that comes as a surprise, has a major impact, and is often rationalized only after the fact with the benefit of hindsight.
Well, guess what? Cesis has black swans! They were gifted to the town by the Portuguese royal family.
Sigita wanted to show us some of the town’s unique shops. Our first stop was a bakery called Cesu Maize.
What could be so unique about a bakery? Every loaf is handmade using native spelt wheat. There are no additives, and the bread isn’t sold until it has fully matured, usually about four days after it is baked. They also make a gluten-free bread using only seeds for those who cannot eat gluten.
All of the breads were delicious.
Next, we stopped at a business that makes healthy vegetable snacks called Labas Saknes.
The snacks were excellent and were made from the vegetable pulp left over after making fresh juices.
We still weren’t done visiting shops. Our next stop was a coffee shop that opened 12 years ago. The owner, who is also the only employee, has never raised his prices since opening.
Each cup of coffee is individually prepared with care. He’s not just a barista, he’s also an artist. Every coffee is topped with a different design made from the cream. Just don’t order your coffee black, or you’ll miss out on half the experience!
Our final stop was a small ceramic shop that also serves as the artist’s workshop. The owner designs and creates every piece by hand.
It was wonderful to see local artists and small business owners thriving in this charming town.
From the shops, we visited the main church in the center of town. It was originally built as a Catholic church but is now Lutheran.
We continued our tour with a stop at a contemporary art exhibit that had just opened earlier this week.
The highlight of the town is the Viduslaiku Pils Medieval Castle. Considering its age, the castle is in remarkably good condition.
After exploring the castle, we continued walking through town. Outside several homes were small stone shoes marked with the date 1941.
That year, approximately 200 Jewish residents were murdered by the Germans. The stone shoes are placed in front of the victims’ homes—one pair for each person who lived there. Small shoes represent the children, while larger shoes represent the adults who were killed.
It was now time to cheer ourselves up with some ice cream at Zaļie Gurķi.
After our ice cream, Sigita drove us back to our lodge, where we would be spending the night.
I almost forgot! Sigita, her sister, and two cousins were featured in a documentary about four young girls living in Latvia in 1989, the year Latvia regained its independence from the Soviet Union. The film is called Paradise ’89. Here is a link to the trailer:
Today we had hiking on our agenda. We woke up to the sight of storks nesting just outside our room.
Edward, our guide for the day, picked us up and took us directly to what I can only describe as a torture chamber or, as he called it, a walkway.
He claimed that the path, covered with sharp stones, activates nerves in your feet that stimulate your brain and make you a better hiker.
The only thing it triggered for me was wishing I had a trigger to pull to shoot Edward. Boy, was that stone walkway painful!
The one truth Edward told us was that when we put our shoes back on, it felt like walking on a cloud.
Our first hike was to “The Big Hell,” a large sandstone cave. Latvians have a rich tradition of folklore and superstition. They believed this cave was the entrance to hell and that if you got too close, the devil would get you.
We got very close, and so far the devil hasn’t gotten us.
From there, we drove about 15 minutes to a much longer hike, 6 kilometers.
We started by passing a huge brick factory with a large clay quarry in the background. Edward explained that during the communist era, the factory churned out massive quantities of clay bricks that were shipped back to Russia. Today, it still operates, but on a much smaller scale.
The main purpose of this hike was to walk along the base of towering sandstone cliffs. It was impressive to see both their immense scale and how fragile they are. We could see areas where sections had collapsed due to weathering or because trees had grown into the cliff faces.
After this hike, we drove about 30 minutes to another part of the national park, where we could see how the Gauja River had carved a canyon through the sandstone.
While we were there, we watched kayaks, canoes, and rafts floating downstream.
A quick text to Emerson, and guess what we’ll be doing tomorrow before heading to Riga?
Two Days in Riga, Latvia
Today we are going to Riga, the capital of Latvia, where the majority of the country’s population lives. If you drive straight from Cesis, it takes a little over an hour, the same as by train.
After seeing all the kayaks and canoes on the Gauja River yesterday, we asked Emerson if he had any buddies who could hook us up.
He came through with flying colors.
We kayaked ten and a half miles. It was a beautiful adventure, watching the landscape change as we made our way downriver.
At the finish is a wooden ferry that, for 5 Euros, will take your car across the river. This saves about 30 kilometers of driving.
After kayaking, we started our drive to Riga with two stops, both castles.
The first was Sigulda Castle. What’s the saying? “If you have seen one castle, you have seen them all!”
Not exactly true. There are certainly similarities, but there are also many differences. In this case, the castle is built high above the Gauja River, giving it a very defensive position. It is constructed mostly of stone.
In front of this castle is the New Sigulda Castle, which today serves as a government building.
Our next stop was Turaida Castle, the third most popular castle in Latvia. I don’t know which castles rank first and second.
As you can see, this castle is made of brick because it was built later than Sigulda Castle.
After visiting the castles, we continued on to Riga, arriving around 6:00 PM.
We are staying at Konventa Seta Design Hotel. It’s a very nice hotel. We did have an issue checking in and with the room they initially assigned us, but after a quick call to Emerson, we were upgraded to a suite.
We had dinner at Kozy Eats. If you are in Riga, you need to try it.
Today Emerson arranged a walking tour of the city followed by a tasting tour of the Central Market.
The tour didn’t start until 10:00 AM, so after all the ice cream and pastries we’ve been enjoying, a five-mile run was in order. The cool, cloudy weather, with rain on and off, made for a perfect run along the river.
People ask, “Dug, how do you travel for weeks at a time with just a carry-on?”
The answer is simple—have your clothes washed.
After the run, we found a great laundromat. For 17 Euros, they washed, dried, and folded all of Margaret’s and my clothes.
Now it was time for the tour.
As you will see from the pictures, there are many churches in Riga, each representing a different branch of Christianity.
One thing you might notice is that instead of a cross on top of the steeples, there is often a weather vane in the shape of a rooster. One side of the rooster is gold, while the other is black. When the wind blows from the river, the gold side faces the city. When the wind blows toward the river, the black side is visible.
This allowed people to tell at a glance whether sailing ships would likely be arriving in port. If the rooster was shining gold, the wind was coming from the river, helping push ships into the harbor. When the rooster appeared black, the opposite was true.
Riga is more than 825 years old and has a fascinating history. Over the centuries it was ruled by medieval German powers, gained independence, was occupied by Sweden, regained independence, was occupied by Russia, and eventually became independent once again.
We saw buildings that reflected these different periods of history. Much of Riga was destroyed during World War II.
Our guide also told us about the Barricades of 1991. Her parents drove their farm tractor from the countryside to Riga to help defend Latvia’s independence from the Soviet Union.
The Barricades of 1991 were a pivotal moment in Latvia’s struggle for independence. After Soviet forces attacked pro-independence demonstrators in neighboring Lithuania, tens of thousands of Latvians built barricades throughout Riga using trucks, buses, construction equipment, and other heavy machinery to protect key government buildings, communication centers, and bridges from a feared Soviet military takeover. Volunteers from across the country stood guard day and night in freezing winter conditions, determined to defend their newly restored democratic institutions through largely peaceful resistance. Although Soviet special forces killed several civilians during the confrontation, the barricades prevented a full-scale assault and became a powerful symbol of Latvian unity, courage, and nonviolent resistance. These events helped pave the way for Latvia’s internationally recognized independence later that same year.
Our guide was just a little girl at the time, but she vividly remembers being worried as her parents left on their tractor with other farmers, explaining they were going to Riga to protect her future.
After touring the Old Town, we headed to the Central Market. These buildings were originally constructed to house German Zeppelin airships and were later repurposed by the Soviets as market pavilions. Today, each building specializes in different products. The first is fish, followed by vegetables, then dairy products, and finally meats.
We stopped at many vendors and sampled a variety of Latvian specialties. Our final stop was for a tasting of a local beer.
After the tour, we walked back to pick up our clean, folded laundry. It may have been the best 17 Euros we spent on the entire trip.
That evening we wandered through the Old Town before stopping for dinner at Domini Canes. Our meals were fantastic, and the service was excellent.
Tomorrow we bike to the beach, so we’re calling it an early evening.
Today we had a bike tour to Jurmala, Latvia. Jurmala is a city on the Gulf of Riga, about 15 miles from Old Town.
We met our guide, Elvira, at 10:00 AM. Latvia, like Estonia, has a great network of bike paths. We could ride for miles without ever having to deal with cars.
As we rode, Elvira would have us stop and tell us about the area.
We quickly left the city and found ourselves in a rural area.
We stopped to see an abandoned German manor. Elvira explained that when the Germans occupied Latvia, many wealthy Germans built large manor houses. When the Soviets took over Latvia, they nationalized all private property, and many of these manor houses were abandoned. Behind the manor stood a Soviet-style building that had once been a school.
We then stopped at a train station, built in something of an Art Deco style, that was no longer in use.
The trains still stop there, but a staffed ticket station is no longer needed since everything is electronic.
As we got closer to Jurmala, we passed a water park that made the one we visited in Estonia look tiny by comparison.
As we entered the beach community, we saw homes that had been built during the German occupation and later abandoned.
We stopped at an open-air museum that showed how fishermen lived in the 19th century, when this area was primarily a fishing village rather than a summer getaway.
When we reached the beach, there was no keeping Margarite out of the icy water.
Once we dragged Margarite out of the gulf, we pedaled along the beach into the wind, which made for a bit of a workout.
From there, Elvira showed us some of the gorgeous homes just off the beach. Many had been built during the German occupation and were later seized by the Soviets. Once Latvia regained its independence, if the original owners could prove ownership, their property was returned to them.
In some cases, the original owners had passed away without any heirs, and the state now owns the property. Most of these homes are in disrepair.
We pedaled back to Old Town Riga, covering about 40 miles. The most impressive part of the tour, however, was Elvira. She is 74 years young.
Being our last night in town, we simply wandered the streets and enjoyed the beautiful evening.
We stumbled upon a boy playing the drums remarkably well.
We learned he was just 10 years old and was asking to help save money for his education.
Tomorrow we are off to Lithuania country / territory 99.
Klaipeda, Lithuania country / territory 99!
We got picked up at 9:00 AM for our drive to Klaipėda, Lithuania. If you drive straight from Riga, Latvia, to Klaipėda, it takes about 2½ hours.
With all of our planned stops, however, we expected the trip to take about 10 hours.
When is a castle not a castle? When it’s a palace.
Our first stop, about two hours outside Riga, was Rundāle Palace, often referred to as the “Versailles of the Baltics.” It was built in the 1730s as the summer residence of the Duke of Courland and was designed by Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the same architect who designed the famous Winter Palace in St. Petersburg. After years of neglect during wars and the Soviet era, the palace has been beautifully restored and is now one of Latvia’s most impressive historic landmarks, complete with lavish rooms and meticulously manicured gardens.
Anyone who has visited Versailles, just outside Paris, will definitely notice some similarities.
After our visit to Rundāle Palace, we drove another 2½ hours to Kuldīga, Latvia. This small historic town, with its cobblestone streets, colorful wooden buildings, and relaxed pace, feels like you’ve stepped back in time.
The town’s centerpiece is the Venta River, home to Europe’s widest waterfall—but more on that in a minute.
Kuldīga prospered as part of the Duchy of Courland in the 17th century, and much of its historic center has been beautifully preserved.
One very sad story from the town’s history involves its Jewish community. Beginning in the 17th century, the Jewish population grew and flourished. That all came to a tragic end in 1941 when Nazi forces occupied the area. Many of the town’s Jews were rounded up, taken into nearby woods, and murdered during the Holocaust.
The former synagogue now serves as the city library.
The Venta Waterfall is the widest waterfall in Europe. While it is only about 6 feet (2 meters) high, it stretches approximately 330–360 feet (100–110 meters) across the river. During the spring and autumn, visitors can witness one of Kuldīga’s most unusual sights—fish appearing to “fly” as they leap upstream over the falls during their migration.
The waterfall can be viewed from either bank of the river or from the old brick bridge that crosses the Venta about 200 meters downstream.
We walked across the bridge, which took us out of the old town, met up with our driver, and continued on to Klaipėda, Lithuania.
We crossed the Latvia-Lithuania border about 30 minutes before reaching our destination.
Even though both countries are members of the European Union, we still had to show our passports.
We learned that Belarus and Russia have been pushing migrants toward the EU’s eastern borders. Lithuania has temporarily reinstated border checks as an extra security measure to help identify anyone who may have entered through neighboring countries.
As we continued toward Klaipėda, our guide shared a few interesting facts about Lithuania.
Lithuanian is one of the oldest living languages. It is one of only two surviving Baltic languages (the other is Latvian) and has preserved many features of ancient Indo-European languages. Linguists often study it because it closely resembles languages spoken thousands of years ago.
Lithuania was once the largest country in Europe. During the 14th and 15th centuries, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania stretched from the Baltic Sea almost to the Black Sea, covering parts of modern-day Belarus, Ukraine, Poland, Russia, Latvia, Estonia, and Moldova.
Basketball is almost a religion. Lithuania has a population of fewer than 3 million people, yet it has produced an impressive number of world-class basketball players and consistently competes with much larger countries. Outdoor basketball courts are a common sight throughout the country.
Grūtas Park is unlike any museum you’ve ever seen. This open-air sculpture park is home to dozens of Soviet-era statues that were relocated there after Lithuania regained its independence. It’s often nicknamed “Stalin World.”
Nature is a way of life. Nearly one-third of Lithuania is covered by forests, and the country has more than 6,000 lakes. Mushroom and berry picking are favorite pastimes for many Lithuanian families.
Bonus fact: Just across the lagoon from Klaipėda is the Curonian Spit, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its towering shifting sand dunes, some of the tallest in Europe. It is one of Lithuania’s most spectacular natural landscapes.
We reached Klaipėda just after 7:00 PM.
It had been a long day, so we grabbed a quick bite to eat and hit the hay.
Today will be a long day, hopefully with a nap somewhere along the way.
We started the day a little later than usual. At 10:00 AM we met our guide, Kristina. The plan was a two-hour walking tour of Klaipėda.
To be honest, and I always am, the Old Town of Klaipėda is very small. Plus, it has burned to the ground several times over the centuries, and two-thirds of the buildings were destroyed by Soviet bombings during World War II.
With that said, there wasn’t a lot to see, but there was a lot for Kristina to tell us. Not to bore you, I’ll just share a few highlights.
As you can see, there are some old buildings that somehow survived sitting right next to relatively new construction.
There is a tall ship docked on the Danė River called the Meridianas. It was built in Turku, Finland, at the Oy Laivateollisuus Ab shipyard. Construction began in 1947, and the ship was completed and launched in 1948.
Its history is interesting because it wasn’t originally built for Lithuania. After World War II, Finland was required to build ships for the Soviet Union as part of its war reparations. The Meridianas was one of 49 similar wooden barquentines delivered under that program.
In 1949, it was assigned to the Klaipėda Maritime School, where it served as a training ship for nearly 20 years, helping educate generations of Lithuanian sailors and captains. After retiring from sea service, it was permanently moored on the Danė River and eventually became a floating restaurant and one of Klaipėda’s iconic symbols. It was carefully restored in 2012–2013 after nearly being lost.
It’s a fascinating piece of history, a Finnish-built ship, created as war reparations for the Soviet Union, that ultimately became one of Lithuania’s most recognizable landmarks… and a great restaurant.
Every so often you’ll see statues of chimney sweeps. Legend says that if the first person you see in the morning is a chimney sweep, you’ll have a good day.
And if you touch the button on their coat and make a wish, the wish will come true.
This building has a statue of a chimney sweep on its chimney, and on the wall below is a bronze button.
Whenever someone who touches that button has their wish come true, they add another button to the wall.
As we continued our tour, we stumbled upon a wall covered with beautifully decorated ceramic tiles. These tiles were created by children from Klaipėda about 10 years ago. They were asked to make a tile showing what they thought best represented the city.
After the tour, we continued exploring the city, including a retired navy vessel that has been turned into a museum.
We were getting hungry, so we had a fantastic lunch at Monai. The food and service were outstanding.
After lunch, we headed back to our apartment. As I mentioned, it was going to be a long day.
Our next adventure was a sunset kayak trip on the river. When Emerson booked this for us, he forgot to mention that sunset isn’t until 10:00 PM, a full 12 hours after our walking tour.
We met along the river at 9:00 PM for our 9:30 PM canoe adventure. After a quick lesson on canoeing, we hit the river right on schedule.
As you can see, it was still relatively light when we started.
By the time we reached Old Town, the sun had set.
We had a great time, and it was a fantastic way to see the city from the water.
Tomorrow we head to the Curonian Spit. More to come!
Kristina picked us up at 9:00 AM. To get to the Curonian Spit, you need to take a 5-minute ferry.
The Curonian Spit is a narrow, 61-mile (98 km) sand dune peninsula that separates the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea. Shared by Lithuania and Russia, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its towering sand dunes!
At its narrowest point, the Curonian Spit is only 400 meters wide, while at its widest point it reaches about 3,800 meters. The sand dunes rise as high as 52 meters.
The town of Karvaičiai was moved four times over the centuries because it kept getting buried by the advancing sand dunes. Eventually, they stopped trying to move it and accepted that it was simply not a good place to live.
We drove to the southernmost location we could reach without having our phones compromised. At this location was a giant sundial, which was really cool to see, and it was surprisingly accurate.
Why could we not go farther south? Because we were within a few kilometers of Russia.
One might ask, “How? We are in western Lithuania, and the Russian border is to the east.”
After World War II ended, Stalin wanted access to the Baltic Sea. Quietly, Roosevelt and Churchill agreed, and the area became what is now known as Kaliningrad, Russia.
This small section of Russia is bordered by Lithuania and Poland and does not connect to the main part of Russia.
Being this close, and needing only one more country to reach 100 countries visited, I asked Kristina if we could drive the few kilometers so I could enter Russia.
She said no problem, but I would have to leave my phone behind because it would be a one-way trip.
Why leave my phone? Russia has cell towers that can mimic Lithuanian cell towers. You think you are connected to a friendly local service, when in reality you may be connected to Russia’s FSB security service. They can potentially install spyware on your phone without you ever realizing it.
Why a one-way trip? That one is easy: Russia might let us enter, but they may not let us leave.
From here, we started heading back north to Nida, the largest town on the Lithuanian side of the peninsula. This is where we had lunch and walked around for a while.
Our next stop was a pine forest where, back in 1979, artists created wooden sculptures depicting different Lithuanian fairy tales. There are over 100 of these sculptures. Kristina was able to tell us the story behind many of them and explain the fairy tales they represented. It was very impressive.
We had one more stop before heading back, and that was the beach. We had spent most of our time on the lagoon side of the peninsula, and Kristina wanted us to experience the Baltic Sea side as well.
One thing to remember is that last September, when we visited Poland, we were in Gdańsk, which is also near the southern border of Kaliningrad, Russia. We asked our guide in Gdańsk if we could step into Russia, and he gave us a similar answer to Kristina.
Once we returned to our apartment, we headed out to dinner at Momo Grill for a great meal.
Tomorrow we head to our final destination: the capital of Lithuania, Vilnius.
Vilnius, Lithuania… and Then Home!
Richard, our driver for the day, picked us up at 10:00 AM. Driving directly from Klaipėda to Vilnius takes about 3 hours, but with our two planned stops, today’s journey would take closer to 7 hours.
Our first stop was the Cold War Museum (Plokštinė Missile Base), located in a former Soviet underground nuclear missile base inside Žemaitija National Park.
Built in the 1960s, it was one of the Soviet Union’s top-secret missile sites and housed nuclear-capable R-12 missiles aimed at Western Europe. The base was hidden underground and remained operational until 1978.
Today, visitors can walk through the original tunnels, command rooms, and missile silo, learning about the secrecy, fear, and tension that defined the Cold War.
One thing I found particularly interesting was an exhibit describing how both the Soviet Union and the United States conducted nuclear attack drills in schools. I remember doing those drills as a kid, closing all the blinds, getting under our desks, and hoping for the best. The museum pointed out the sobering reality that these drills would have done little to help. A direct nuclear strike would have completely destroyed the surrounding area, leaving virtually nothing behind.
Before our second stop… Richard saw a Circle K and had to stop for a hotdog.
Our second stop was the Hill of Crosses (Kryžių Kalnas), a unique pilgrimage site about 12 km north of Šiauliai, Lithuania.
This small hill is covered with hundreds of thousands of crosses, rosaries, and other religious symbols placed by visitors over the past 150 years.
During the Soviet occupation, authorities repeatedly tried to destroy the site, bulldozing the crosses and even guarding the area to prevent people from returning. Yet, under the cover of darkness, Lithuanians continued to replace them. Today, the Hill of Crosses stands as a powerful symbol of Lithuanian faith, national identity, and peaceful resistance.
These pictures don’t come close to capturing the sheer scale of the hill or the incredible number of crosses.
Together, these two sites create a fascinating contrast. The Hill of Crosses represents Lithuania’s spiritual strength and peaceful resistance to Soviet rule, while the Cold War Museum is a reminder of the military power, fear, and nuclear threat that defined the same era.
We arrived in Vilnius around 4:00 PM.
We are staying at Hotel PACAI. After checking in, we took a walk around the Old Town before calling it a day. Tomorrow, we have a guided walking tour of the city.
Today we had a 3-hour walking tour of Vilnius.
Our guide for the next two days is Jelena. We started the tour by walking toward the cathedral, where we could see the remains of the castle perched on the hill above the city.
Vilnius has two rivers: the Neris River, the larger of the two, and the Vilnia River, a smaller, winding river that gives Vilnius its name. The castle site was chosen because of its hilltop location and the protection provided by the two rivers, making it much easier to defend.
We walked by the cathedral, which over the centuries has served many different purposes, depending on who controlled Lithuania.
Next on our tour was the university and its library, where the doors are more than just doors—they serve as a memorial to the people who printed the first books here in the 16th century.
There is also a famous librarian who worked at this library during the Nazi occupation, but more on that later.
As we walked through the city, you notice a great deal of green space. Much of it was created after World War II. Vilnius was on the front line between Germany and the Soviet Union, and many buildings were destroyed. Some were never rebuilt and instead became parks.
You will also notice that, in some places, Soviet-style apartment blocks were constructed.
Next, we entered what was once a vibrant and prosperous Jewish community.
Vilnius earned the nickname “Jerusalem of Lithuania” because for centuries it was one of the world’s greatest centers of Jewish learning, religion, and culture. Here are some key statistics and milestones:
- Mid-1600s: About 3,000 Jews lived in Vilnius, making up roughly 25% of the city’s population.
- 1700s: The Jewish community continued to grow despite wars and fires. A 1784 census documented a thriving and economically important community.
- Late 1700s: Vilnius became the home of the Vilna Gaon (1720–1797), one of Judaism’s most influential scholars, cementing the city’s reputation as a global center of Jewish scholarship.
- 1897 (Russian Empire census): Approximately 64,000 Jews lived in Vilnius—about 40% of the city’s population.
- 1916–1931: Jews made up 40–45% of the city’s residents, with more than 100 synagogues, numerous yeshivas, Yiddish theaters, newspapers, and publishing houses.
- Before World War II: Vilnius was home to around 55,000–60,000 Jews, one of the largest and most vibrant Jewish communities in Europe.
- The Holocaust (1941–1944): Nearly the entire Jewish community of Vilnius was murdered after the creation and liquidation of the Vilna Ghetto. Thousands were executed at the nearby Ponary Memorial.
- Today: Lithuania’s Jewish population is only a small fraction of its prewar size, though Vilnius remains the country’s center of Jewish life and continues to preserve and celebrate this rich heritage.
I mentioned earlier a famous librarian whom most would call a hero: Ona Šimaitė. During the Nazi occupation, she obtained permission to enter the Vilnius Ghetto under the pretense of recovering books that belonged to the YIVO Institute for Jewish Research. Instead, she secretly smuggled out thousands of rare Jewish books, manuscripts, and historical documents, hiding them in libraries, churches, and private homes. She also carried food, forged documents, and messages to help people trapped in the ghetto. Arrested and tortured in 1944, she survived the war, and thanks to her courage, an irreplaceable part of Lithuania’s Jewish cultural heritage was preserved for future generations.
As we continued through different sections of the Old Town, we made our way to what, during the Soviet era, was the city’s factory district because of its location along the Vilnia River. One artist who had worked in a factory that galvanized metal later created a massive gorilla sculpture after Lithuania regained its independence.
Today, this area is undergoing significant redevelopment, with factories being converted into condominiums and office space. Nearby is another neighborhood along the Vilnia River where many artists now have galleries.
During Soviet times, all artists had to be officially registered, and artwork could only be commissioned through government-controlled committees. Once Lithuania regained its independence, it unleashed the creativity of artists whose talents had been constrained for decades.
That concluded our tour.
We spent the afternoon exploring on our own. We also walked to the top of the hill where the remains of the castle stand. From there, you can see the Old Town on one side of the Neris River and the modern business district on the other, with its tall glass office towers.
Tomorrow will be our last day in Vilnius and our final day before flying back to the United States.
Today our first stop, about an hour outside of Vilnius, was The Menų skalbykla (Art Laundry), an independent art gallery in Naujieji Valkininkai, Lithuania, housed in a renovated former laundry building. It hosts contemporary art exhibitions and cultural events.
Unfortunately, they were between exhibits, so the walls were empty.
We met with the owner, who is an artist himself. He works mostly with wood and gave us a few gifts.
The building was the laundry for a hospital and school during Soviet times. It was mainly for children with tuberculosis. The hospital was built here because of its location near a train station and its surrounding pine forest, which was thought to be good for the children’s lungs.
It is strange that this remote village has Soviet-style apartment buildings. These were built to house the teachers, doctors, and nurses who worked here.
We visited the former school and hospital, which is now a home for seniors. The artist wanted to show us a fresco painted in the hallway. It was completed in 1972 and approved by the Communist Party’s art committee. The artist included the Lithuanian coat of arms from one of the periods when Lithuania was independent. If the committee had realized that the coat of arms was in the painting, the artist would have been arrested.
Our next stop was a lesson in drawing with charcoal. We were meeting with an artist who lives in a very remote village. Click this link to see where it is.
The artist, Paulius Šliaupa, lives in this small village with his girlfriend and cat in a house he built himself.
As you can see from his website, he is very talented.
We walked down to a bridge, which would be our subject for the day.
On the way back, we stopped at a hollowed-out oak tree. The tree is well over a thousand years old. It was used to hide books printed in the Lithuanian language, which was banned during the time Lithuania was ruled by the Russian Empire.
Now it was time for our lesson. Since Margarite and I had the same instructor, you can tell who has the artistic talent and who does not.
What we thought would be our last stop was Trakai Castle, located in the small city of Trakai. The city sits on a lake with many islands, and the castle was built on one of them.
For this reason, it was known as the best-defended castle in the area, except in the winter, when the lake froze solid.
We had one last surprise visit to cap off our day of Lithuanian art. It was in an industrial area on the way back to Vilnius. A large cement factory wall was used as the canvas for a painting of Rodin’s The Thinker. There was a twist, though, the back of The Thinker is dissolving. This is meant to show that everything is temporary.
That is it from the Baltics. A big thank you to Anneli and Emerson for making this adventure awesome.
Hopefully, there will be a few more countries knocked off the list before 2026 comes to a close.
Cheers,
DUG
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