Life Of DUG: Poland and a lot more September 2025

You may wonder where I’ve been for the last few months. I added another country to my list! In March, I visited Honduras, bringing my total to 92 countries and territories. The main purpose of the visit was to deliver a large amount of soccer equipment to an organization known as Sol International. Thank you, Council Rock United Soccer Association, for all your donations.

Now, I’m off to Poland, but I’ll be taking a roundabout route—meeting old friends, seeing familiar faces, and making new friends along the way. More on that in the weeks ahead.

As most of you know, when I travel, I like to give back. While this trip will be focused solely on touring, I do want to mention an organization I recently discovered: Hello Future. Margarite and I had a wonderful meeting with Charlie Grosso, the Founder and CEO, and Andra Ehrenkranz, the Board Chair.

You can visit their website to learn more, but in a nutshell, they work to break the cycle of children living in refugee camps—through education. Their focus is on middle- and high-school–aged children, and they provide this education both directly and through partners.

Right now, all the hard work that Hello Future has done over the last ten years is in jeopardy. Why, you may ask? While some of their funding comes from individuals like you and me, a significant portion has been coming from USAID—much of which has now been eliminated.

No matter where you stand on these cuts, I think we can all agree that these children deserve an education. If you have a few extra dollars and would like to make a donation to Hello Future, click here: - No donation is too small—or too large.

Here’s a short video, one minute, of some of the children being helped by Hello Future and their partners.

Hopefully, in the not-too-distant future, Margarite and I will visit Iraq to see firsthand the successes of Hello Future.

Two Days in Utrecht, Netherlands

We landed around 9:00 AM. Once at Amsterdam Airport, we met up with Ms. Maggie, who will be joining us for the entire trip. Why start in the Netherlands if our final destination is Poland? Good question.

Ms. Maggie’s great-grandfather was born and raised in Amsterdam before immigrating to the United States, and she wanted to visit the apartment where he grew up.

A good friend of ours, nicknamed Hot Spot, picked us up from the airport. We first met Hot Spot eight years ago in a sushi bar in a small Japanese village, and he now lives in Utrecht. He kindly offered to be our guide for the two days we would spend there.

After touring the family house, we drove 35 minutes to Utrecht and checked into our Airbnb—a lovely canal house. Canal houses are unique spaces built beneath roads and homes along the waterways, originally used to move goods from the canal into the houses above. Nowadays, most have been converted for other uses. Ours was a charming little apartment. Time for some food! We stopped at TIJM Coffee House and Dinner Bar. Excellent healthy food and great coffee.

And who should show up at TIJM’s but none other than Princess Finnegan! We met her about eight years ago in New York’s Penn Station while on our way to Japan, and she ended up traveling with us for a month. About a year later, she met The Dude and moved to Utrecht.

Next up: kayaking the canals of Utrecht. We spent two hours paddling through the city, enjoying the sights from the water—a fantastic way to see the city.

After that, we set off on foot to explore more.

A quick downpour caught us by surprise, but we were told these brief showers are common. We ducked into a local spot, enjoyed a beer, and waited for the rain to pass before continuing our walk.

We came across a highly recommended ice cream shop, so of course we stopped for a cone before moving on.

For dinner, Hot Spot had made reservations at GYS, a gluten-free, vegan restaurant. The food was excellent—you’d never guess it lacked gluten or meat. Joining us for dinner were The Big Chill (Hot Spot’s significant other) and The Dude (Princess Finnegan’s significant other).

Afterward, we walked back to our Airbnb, and the group dispersed to their respective homes.

Day 2 – Utrecht, Netherlands

We rented bikes to tour the city like locals and rode out to Princess Finnegan and “The Dude’s” home. What a wonderful place—about three kilometers outside the city center.

We biked back to the city center to meet up with Hot Spot and “The Big Chill.” “The Big Chill” had booked us a tour of the Dom Tower. Standing at 112 meters, the Dom Tower is the iconic symbol of Utrecht and the tallest church spire in the Netherlands. Over the last 700 years, it has witnessed much of Utrecht’s tumultuous past. At its base lies Dom Square, which began as a fortress, then became a religious center, and now serves as a lively meeting place.

We climbed 465 steps, taking breaks to explore sections housing the 24 bells. All the bells ring only twice a year—on New Year’s and August 31st. Yes, just yesterday, we were lucky enough to hear them all ring!

After the Dom Tower tour, we decided that after climbing 465 stairs we deserved ice cream.

Next, we visited the original Miffy sculpture honoring Dick Bruna.

Miffy, known as Nijntje (“little bunny”) in Dutch, was created in 1955 by Bruna in Utrecht while on a family holiday. Initially, she had floppy ears, but by 1963 her design evolved into the iconic rabbit we know today—defined by bold black lines and a limited palette of primary colors. Miffy’s minimalist, graphic style, influenced by Bruna’s time in Paris, made her beloved by preschoolers, and her simple stories about everyday adventures captured the hearts of children worldwide.

While visiting Miffy, we learned that “The Big Chill” grew up in Utrecht and, during high school, worked at a nearby ice cream parlor. Being just a few hundred meters away, we had to try it. Its claim to fame: each cone is topped with a generous helping of whipped cream.

It was worth the extra stop!

We continued exploring the town, checking out unique shops before having dinner at Restaurant Carmel Market a fantastic Middle Eastern tapas restaurant. What a great meal!

Before heading back to get our bikes, we decided one last ice cream cone was in order.

After all that ice cream, I was in no shape to ride a bike, so “The Big Chill” gave me a lift home.

Here’s a three-second video of the 15 scariest minutes of my life:

Tomorrow, we’re off to Vienna, Austria, as our journey to Poland continues.

Two Days in Vienna

We had an easy flight from Amsterdam to Vienna. After checking into our Airbnb, we headed to the opera house to meet our guide for a two-hour introduction to the city.

The weather was pleasant when the tour began, and our guide did a great job providing an overview of Vienna’s history.

One of our first stops was a monument dedicated to the survivors of the Holocaust and the fight against fascism.

About halfway through, the skies opened up and the rain came down hard—but the tour went on.

We learned that the palace in Vienna is actually a complex of seven buildings, now used as government offices and museums.

We also saw a statue of Mozart and learned that he was not born in Vienna and actually disliked the city. However, since Vienna was the center of the music scene at the time, he had to perform there. In fact, his first performance in the city was at just eight years old.

The tour gave us a great education, and we saw many historic buildings and statues.

On the way back to our Airbnb we took a quick glance at the Catholic cathedral.

After a long day of travel and touring we treated ourselves to some ice cream before calling it a day.

Fun Facts About Vienna:

85% of residents rent their homes rather than own them.
All rental housing is rent controlled, keeping prices stable.
The majority of rental properties are government owned.
Universities are free for students.
All men must serve either six months in the military or nine months in social services between the ages of 18 and 35.
Healthcare is largely free for everyone.
Income taxes can reach up to 55%.

Day 2 – Vienna, Austria

This morning, we took a three-hour bike tour of Vienna’s green spaces, covering over 20 miles. Vienna has dedicated a remarkable amount of land to public recreation.

We started our ride in the city center but quickly reached the Danube Canal. From there, we biked along the canal promenade until we arrived at a large park.

We explored the park, passing disc golf courses, soccer fields, tennis courts, swimming areas, and more.

One highlight was the Danube Tower, the tallest structure in Vienna, featuring a rotating restaurant at the top.

We then crossed the Danube River to Danube Island, where we found a beach and even a water-skiing area—all just a short distance from the city center.

On our way back, we rode under the highway, where the supports were covered with fascinating street art.

Back in the city, we stopped for ice cream at a parlor claiming to serve the best in the world.

Here’s my dilemma: Should I stop eating ice cream now that I’ve experienced “the best,” or should I continue just in case they weren’t telling the truth?

In the afternoon, we joined a walking tour titled Jewish Traces and Hitler’s Vienna.

The tour traced the history of Jewish life in the area over the centuries. Throughout the city, bronze plaques are set into the sidewalks in front of apartments—reminders of the Jewish people who were killed during the Holocaust.

Before the Nazi invasion, there were several hundred thousand Jewish residents in Vienna. Most were forced to leave under impossible conditions, often paying enormous exit taxes. For example, Sigmund Freud paid the equivalent of about $600,000 in today’s money for his family to escape.

More than 60,000 Jewish people were unable to leave and were murdered.

After the war, many Austrians wanted to forget the atrocities committed here. But starting in the 1980s, the city adopted the philosophy of “Never Forget” to prevent history from repeating itself. Monuments and memorial plaques have since been erected throughout the city.

Toward the end of the tour, we learned about the rise of Hitler in Austria and how the German invasion unfolded in less than 48 hours from start to finish.

After the tour, we walked to Schweizerhaus, a traditional Austrian beer garden located in the same park we biked through earlier (thank you, Christine, for the recommendation!).

It was about a 30-minute walk along the Danube Canal before turning into the park, and the beer and food were well worth the trip.

On the way back, we saw the locals making wonderful use of the canal promenade—singing, dancing, and enjoying live music from various pop-up venues.

Before calling it a night, we treated ourselves to more ice cream.

Tomorrow, we’re off to Bratislava, Slovakia.

Two Days in Bratislava, Slovakia – Country/Territory #93!

We took a catamaran from Vienna, Austria, to Bratislava, Slovakia. The trip took just 1 hour and 15 minutes, allowing us to enjoy the sights and sounds along the Danube River.

We arrived at 9:45 AM, with a scheduled tour at the Bratislava VW factory at 11:30 AM. Since the factory is only 15 minutes from the city center, we had plenty of time—so I stopped for ice cream.

That almost caused a disaster. Our Uber driver dropped us off at the wrong entrance. You might think, not a big deal, but when a factory covers several square miles, it becomes one. We were dropped off at 11:00 AM and, after walking a mile and a half, we reached the correct location just in time at 11:30 AM.

Not just anyone can tour this factory—these tours are mainly intended for educational groups, such as high school field trips. When I inquired about a tour, they assumed I was with a school and scheduled us in.

Unfortunately, cameras aren’t allowed inside, so no photos. The tour lasted over three hours and covered several miles of the facility. We started in the pressing hall, where sheets of aluminum or steel are pressed into panels, doors, hoods, trunks, and more. From there, we moved on to the body shop, where 80–90% of the assembly is done by robotics—an amazing process to witness.

Lastly, we saw the powertrain installation: engine, transmission, brakes, and more. Each step has strict quality control, sometimes done by humans and other times by robots equipped with high-precision lasers.

The plant builds VWs, Audis, Škodas, and Porsches, producing over 1,600 cars per day. With 12,000 workers spread over three shifts, the factory operates 24 hours a day.

We grabbed an Uber back to the city center.

At 3:00 PM, we joined a city walking tour. We learned that Bratislava is the only capital city located in one country but directly bordering two others: Austria and Hungary.

Over the last century, Slovakia has experienced significant turmoil—first becoming part of Nazi Germany during World War II, then liberated by the Soviet Union, only to be oppressed for the next 41 years. Today, it is a vibrant democracy.

We stopped by a monument honoring the Jewish people from Slovakia who were murdered by the Nazis. It stands on the site of a former synagogue. The synagogue survived the war but was later demolished by the Soviet Union to make way for a bridge across the Danube River.

Our final stop was Bratislava Castle, perched high on a hill overlooking the Danube. It survived many wars and was never conquered—until a few Slovak soldiers got drunk and accidentally burned it down. It was later rebuilt by the Soviets, which explains its rather plain appearance; the communists favored function over form.

After the tour, it was time for another ice cream, followed by dinner at a nice outdoor café.

Lastly, before heading in for the night, Margarite decided to join me in the ice cream tradition.

Day 2 – Bratislava

This morning, we arranged a bike tour called City, Iron Curtain, and Bunker by Bike.

Since we had already done a city walking tour the day before, we skipped some of the city stops. Our first stop was the Blue Church. From the pictures, you can probably guess how it got its name. Designed by a Hungarian architect, it was meant to stand out.

Getting married or baptized at this church is a big deal—people reserve it years in advance. For baptisms, reservations are sometimes made before the baby is even conceived!

Our guide was 18 in 1989, which means the first 18 years of his life were under Soviet communist rule. He told us stories of how teachers who misspoke about communist leaders would simply disappear, and how they never had any kind of luxury items. In 1989, when the border between Czechoslovakia and Austria opened, his family queued at 2:00 AM and crossed 12 hours later, at 2:00 PM—just to buy a microwave. They were the first in their neighborhood to get one, and he remembers all the neighbors coming over to see it.

As a point of reference, in 1993, Czechoslovakia peacefully split into two countries: the Czech Republic and Slovakia.

After our abbreviated city tour, we biked about seven miles to the Slovakia–Austria border. Before World War II, Czechoslovak leaders, concerned about the rise of Hitler and Nazi Germany, fortified the border by building 15 bunkers. Each bunker had two-meter-thick walls and housed 32 Czechoslovak soldiers. Only two of these bunkers still exist.

Ironically, not a single shot was ever fired from these bunkers to protect Czechoslovakia from the Nazis. In 1938, the Munich Agreement—signed by Britain, France, Italy, and Germany—forced Czechoslovakia to cede much of its territory to Nazi Germany without a fight. Later, these bunkers were used by the Nazis against the Allies in World War II and then by the Soviets during the Cold War.

After the Cold War, 13 of the 15 bunkers were looted and destroyed. The remaining two were also looted but, since 1993, original Czechoslovak soldiers and their families have been working to restore them to their original state. We toured the inside of one of them.

We biked back to town, and after lunch, Ms. Maggie decided to take a break from ice cream. Instead, we switched to pastries and shots.

She found a pastry shop called Slovakian Chimney Cakes. Guess what? The pastry was filled with ice cream—not my favorite!

Next, it was time to kayak on the Danube River. Our guide, Peter, gave us a quick refresher on kayaking—probably a good idea considering the strong current.

From the east side of the river, opposite the city center, we could see both the old city center and castle, as well as the southern part of the city, which is newer and full of modern glass buildings.

The evening was perfect for kayaking—warm, with a nice breeze. After an hour and a half of kayaking and sightseeing, we walked back to the city center. Ms. Maggie’s pastry plan hadn’t gone so well, so we moved on to shots.

I felt obligated—after all, Ms. Maggie had eaten more ice cream in the last six days than she had in the last six years! She was kind to me and limited it to two bars, one shot at each… but she warned that might change in the coming days.

Tomorrow, we pick up a rental car and head to our first stop in Poland.

Drive to Poland

Today is the day we reached our goal of getting to Poland. You might have thought I would call it our final destination, but in truth, the trip is only just beginning.

Before heading out, we decided to tour the inside of Bratislava Castle—and we were glad we did.

We had the chance to go down into the basement, more than a hundred feet below the entranceway. There we could see the infrastructure designed to hold the weight of the castle, as well as some ruins dating back to the Roman era.

The interior was grander than I expected, and I climbed the tower for stunning views of Bratislava.

On our way back to the city center, we stopped by the Castle Gardens. We had heard they were impressive, but we were underwhelmed.

However, there was a pleasant surprise—a farmers’ market and craft fair were underway, and we picked up some delicious pastries before hitting the road.

We had two planned stops. The first was Beckov Castle ruins in the Trenčín Region of Slovakia. This mid-13th-century cultural monument has fallen into ruin over the centuries but still offers valuable insight into the history of the castle and the region.

We spent about an hour exploring the grounds. Photos don’t capture the true scale of the castle or how dramatically it rises from the cliffside.

Our next stop was Vlkolínec, a small village in central Slovakia where historical traditions, houses, and crafts are still preserved today. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of ten similar villages in Slovakia designated as folk architecture reservations. The village remains largely untouched, with artifacts dating back to the 15th century. It feels like stepping back in time to a simpler era.

Although most of the 45 log houses are still inhabited (the village population is only 35), two houses have been converted into museums featuring traditional tools, crafts, cornhusk dolls, wood carvings, and old-style kitchens. Normally, visitors can try weaving on a traditional loom, pump water from the wooden well in the village center, and sample the local delicacy—warm, homemade poppy seed nut roll.

Unfortunately, we arrived just at 5:00 PM, after most of the activities had closed, but we still enjoyed the village.

It was now time to head to our final destination. We had two more hours of driving ahead, with dark skies threatening rain.

We arrived in Zakopane, Poland, at 7:00 PM, where we were greeted by Grazyna. We’ll be staying at her and her husband Stanislaw’s (Stanley’s) bed and breakfast for the next few nights. We met Grazyna and Stanley through our friends Al and Gosia back home.

That evening, we walked to the center of Zakopane and enjoyed a hearty dinner at a traditional Polish restaurant. Naturally, we had to do a shot before eating!

On the walk back, Ms. Maggie felt bad for me—I had enjoyed a pastry and a shot, but no ice cream—so she bought me one to ease my “withdrawals.”

Then it was off to bed after a long, full day.

First Day in Zakopane, Poland – Country/Territory #94

We woke up to a nice breakfast provided by Grazyna (Gracie).

She then gave us a brief history of the house we are staying in. It has been in her husband’s family for well over 100 years. During World War II, the Nazi SS seized the house and forced the family to sleep in the basement. They didn’t get their home back until the war ended.

Gracie and her husband moved back to Zakopane about 20 years ago after living and working in Warsaw.

She gave us directions for a hike, and we drove to the entrance of Tatrzański Park. We chose a moderate trail, about five miles with 1,800 feet of elevation gain. While it wasn’t raining, the sky remained overcast, so we didn’t get the views we had hoped for.

Zakopane is a ski resort town in the winter and a hub for outdoor activities in the summer. Being a weekend, the park was quite crowded—at least until we got far enough along the trail to enjoy a bit more peace and nature.

After the hike, we walked back to town for a great lunch at Christina Pizzas and Restaurant. Everything was delicious.

After lunch, Ms. Maggie said, “It’s time for pastries!” We found a local shop that made doughnut-like pastries filled with fresh local fruit jellies. Ours had just come out of the oven. Ms. Maggie chose cherry, and I had apple—well deserved after this morning’s hike.

Later, as we strolled through town, we stopped for some warm mulled wine. At first, I thought the ladies said “mold wine,” and I thought, that sounds like a strange way to drink wine—with mold in it! But when in Rome… I was pleasantly surprised to find there was no mold at all, and it was the perfect drink for sitting outside in the cool mountain air.

Now it’s time to rest after this morning’s hike—and to nap off the mulled (not mold!) wine.

We had dinner at Christina Pizzas and Restaurant, the same place where we had lunch. The food was excellent. Now, it’s time to hit the hay.

Last Day in Zakopane

Grace had us over for coffee, tea, and pastries this morning. She shared some sights we should see since it was our last day.

First, we visited the historic church, made entirely of locally grown wood.

Behind the church was a cemetery where many artists and poets are buried. The grave markers were eclectic—perhaps to match the personalities of the people they honor.

After the church, we hiked to the top of Gubałówka, a mountain in the Gubałówka Range above Zakopane. There are three ways to reach the top: by ski lift, by funicular, or by hiking.

We chose to hike. It took 45 minutes to climb the 1.25-mile trail, gaining over 1,000 feet in elevation.

At the top, there’s a ski resort in the winter and a place for visitors to enjoy the views year-round. Gracie had warned us that over the years it has become very touristy and crowded with vendors selling souvenirs. She was right.

Still, the views made the hike worthwhile. Ms. Maggie and I compromised—no pastry, no shot, no ice cream—just a beer.

After our beer, we wandered through the souvenir shops before hiking back down to town, following the path beneath the ski lift.

Once in town, we had lunch, and Ms. Maggie picked up some smoked cheese, for which Zakopane is known. I decided to try the soft-serve ice cream everyone seemed to be walking around with—I wasn’t impressed.

Now, a little R&R before meeting up with Grace for happy hour at 6:00 PM.

We enjoyed happy hour and had the pleasure of meeting Stanley.

As I mentioned in my first update, this trip is about reconnecting with old friends and making new ones. I’m sure Gracie and Stanley will now be counted among the new friends we’ve made.

Tomorrow, we’re off to the mines—salt mines, to be exact.

Today we departed Zakopane, Poland, for Krakow. A direct drive would take about two hours, but we added two stops along the way.

The first was the Chabówka Rolling-Stock Heritage Park Skansen. We left Zakopane at 9:00 AM and arrived at the railway museum around 10:00 AM.

When I say “railway,” I mean a railway of the past—it felt as though we had traveled back in time. We were able to get up close to a collection of over 90 historical railway vehicles, including steam, electric, and diesel locomotives, as well as a variety of rolling stock. Many date back to the late 1800s, while some were still in use as recently as the 1980s.

This open-air museum, established in 1993 on the site of a World War II steam depot, features a growing collection of historical exhibits, including locomotives, snow ploughs, and rail-mounted cranes. Some of the steam locomotives have been restored to working order and are operated on select dates.

The park is located at the western end of one of Poland’s most scenic rail lines, running from Chabówka to Nowy Sącz. This line was never electrified or heavily modernized, so it retains much of its original infrastructure, including buildings and signaling. Today, the Skansen boasts one of the largest and most fascinating collections of railway exhibits in Poland—a must-see for railway enthusiasts or even just your average traveler like me passing through the area.

After spending about an hour at the railway, we continued on to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. This legendary 13th-century salt mine, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, produced table salt until 2007, making it one of the world’s oldest operating salt mines.

The mine’s highlights include numerous statues, three chapels, and even a complete cathedral carved from rock salt. The Chapel of the Blessed King, the largest of the chapels, was built by miners so they could pray for their safety. Today, despite its unusual location, the chapel is used for weddings and church services. Everything in the chapel is made of salt—even the floor, which looks like marble but is, in fact, salt.

There are underground lakes within the mine, as well as original equipment used to raise and lower horses, which once helped with the heavy workloads. We descended to the fifth level, 330 meters below the surface (there are nine levels in total, with many kilometers of tunnels throughout).

It was well worth the visit, but like many of the sites we see, the pictures simply don’t do the salt mine justice.

From there, we headed to Krakow. Upon arrival, we met an old friend, Karen Sue, who will be showing us around Krakow and Warsaw. More on that tomorrow.

Day 1 – Krakow, Poland

I thought Karen Sue was going to be showing us around, but she recruited her friend Alex instead. Alex is a professional guide. Karen Sue felt that the history of Krakow was too important not to have told by an expert.

We spent seven hours walking the streets of Krakow. We started in the Kazimierz Jewish district. At one point, Kazimierz was an island separate from Krakow. The population was split roughly 50% Jewish and 50% Christian, but the Christians occupied about 80% of the island while the Jews lived in the remaining 20%.

During the German occupation, the Jewish population was moved south of Kazimierz into the ghetto and eventually deported to concentration camps.

We visited seven synagogues, all built before World War II. While the interiors were destroyed during the war, the structures survived. After Poland regained its independence in 1989, the synagogues were restored. Most are now museums, but one still functions as a synagogue and has the oldest cemetery in Krakow on its grounds.

You may notice rocks on the gravestones rather than flowers, as you often see in other cemeteries. This tradition comes from the Jewish people’s exodus from Egypt: when many died crossing the desert, rocks were the only way to mark their graves.

We learned a lot about the history of the Jewish people in Europe, especially in Poland, though I admit I didn’t retain every detail. One shocking fact did stay with me: before World War II, nearly 100,000 Jewish people lived in Krakow. Today, the official number is about 150.

Up until 1989, when Poland regained its independence, the Holocaust was considered taboo to speak about.

After visiting the Jewish district, we continued to Wawel Castle and Cathedral. This was the original seat of Krakow centuries ago and was used by the Germans during the occupation. Today, it is fully restored.

The cathedral itself was untouched during the war and was amazing to see.

Our next stop was the Old Town, where we took a break for lunch. Alex and I enjoyed a beer before continuing.

In Old Town we visited many churches, including one dating back to the 11th century. We also saw the university, the second-oldest in Northern Europe (after the one in Prague). Of course, we had to grab some pastries along the way.

Throughout the tour, Alex gave us a full history lesson on Poland—though, again, I didn’t retain as much as I’d like.

After dinner, we stayed true to our tradition: doing shots and having ice cream. Karen Sue joined us for the shots but passed on the ice cream.

Day 2 – Krakow, Poland

Today we drove out to Auschwitz-Birkenau (Concentration Camp), about an hour outside of Krakow.

I’ll let the pictures and signs tell the story, but hopefully everyone reading this already knows the story.

And we MUST remember it and continue to tell it, so it NEVER happens again.

The following description may sound like it’s from Auschwitz-Birkenau. But it isn’t. It’s from an ICE facility in the United States. Think about that carefully. Yes—this can happen again.

“He lost sleep while sharing a cell and an open toilet with other men who would jockey at night for space to sleep on the cold concrete floor. (“The smell was horrible,” he said.) No bedding was provided.”

This account comes from a person who was legally in the United States but was mistakenly detained by ICE for 13 days.

I said this after visiting Hiroshima, and I’ll say it again now: every world leader should be required to visit. These places are reminders of what must never be repeated.

After our visit, we needed something a little more uplifting, so we went to the childhood home of Pope John Paul II. Now a museum, it’s well worth visiting if you’re in Poland. We had learned some of his history from Alex the day before during our Krakow tour.

He had begun his studies at the university/seminary, but because of the war, he was sent to a German labor camp. I think that experience shaped much of his thinking and behavior.

At his home-turned-museum, they even had the gun he was shot with. There was also a powerful photo of him visiting the man who shot him in prison, telling him that he forgave him.

From there, we drove about 20 minutes into the middle of nowhere to enjoy cream cake. We were told this was Pope John Paul II’s favorite place to get it. The café is called Galicjanka Café. Ms. Maggie is convinced it’s just a publicity stunt to draw people in—but I can tell you, it was well worth the drive. The cream cake was delicious.

Back in Krakow, it was dinner and shots. No ice cream tonight, so we had two shots each instead.

Tomorrow, we have a cooking class.

Day 3 – Krakow, Poland

Today’s cooking class was awesome—we learned how to make pierogi. We found out they originated in the east, which makes sense since they resemble Chinese dumplings. In Poland, if the stuffing includes cheese, they’re known as Russian pierogi. If it’s just potatoes with onions, they’re called Ukrainian pierogi.

We started by buying ingredients at a local market in Krakow, which has been operating in some form since the 1600s. Most of the vendors are farmers from the surrounding hillsides, bringing their products to sell fresh each day.

After shopping, we drove to Agata’s house for the lesson. First, we made the dough—this was Ms. Maggie’s job. It was simply flour, water, and a little oil. Some people add eggs, but we did not. Next came the stuffing: both potato only, and potato with cheese.

Once the dough was ready, I rolled it out and cut it to the right size for each pierogi.

Then Margarite, Karen Sue, and Ms. Maggie stuffed and sealed them, while Agata boiled them for us.

The best part, of course, was getting to eat what we made.

After class, we decided to walk back to our apartment. Since it was on the opposite side of the river, the walk gave us a fresh view of Krakow.

And for you dog lovers—here’s a statue we came across in the park near our apartment.

We finished our day with some ice cream!

Today we drove to Warsaw. Our group has grown by one—Karen Sue decided to join us on our adventure.

Normally, the trip takes about four hours, but we planned to make some stops along the way. Ms. Maggie volunteered to create the itinerary. Our first stop was Ojców National Park, Poland’s smallest national park. There are about 700 caves here, and Ms. Maggie chose for us to explore Wierzchowska Górna Cave.

What an experience! I’ve been in many caves, most far larger than Wierzchowska Górna, but what made this one special was being able to walk freely through the narrow passageways and suddenly emerge into larger chambers. We spent about an hour exploring the cave.

As we departed, the rain began—sometimes pouring like cats and dogs. Our next stop was especially meaningful for Ms. Maggie’s grandmother and Aunt Chelie. We knew they would be delighted that Maggie planned for us to see the Black Madonna of Częstochowa.

The Monastery of Jasna Góra in Częstochowa is the third-largest Catholic pilgrimage site in the world and home to a miraculous icon. As the national shrine of Poland, it is truly a sight to behold.

We were far from alone on our visit—joined by somewhere between 10–20 thousand of our closest friends. The parking lot was enormous, filled with hundreds of tour buses and thousands of cars.

Regarded by many as Poland’s spiritual capital, Częstochowa welcomes around four million pilgrims each year from across the world and serves as the center of Polish Catholicism.

The Black Madonna of Częstochowa (also known as Our Lady of Częstochowa) is a beloved icon of the Virgin Mary. Difficult to date due to damage caused by Hussite raiders in 1430, legend has it that the image was painted by Luke the Evangelist on a table built by Jesus himself. During the Nazi occupation, Hitler prohibited pilgrimages to Jasna Góra, yet many still traveled there in secret. After Poland’s liberation in 1945, half a million pilgrims came to express their gratitude. Later, during the Cold War, Jasna Góra became a center of anti-Communist resistance. Today, it remains a place of profound religious and historical significance, inspiring visitors of all faiths.

With thousands of pilgrims ahead of us and limited time, Ms. Maggie managed to find some “VIPs”—literally lying on a table. She took four, and within minutes (instead of hours) we had reached the Black Madonna, said our prayers, and moved on. Who would have guessed the Black Madonna had a VIP fast pass!

It was moving to witness thousands of people traveling from faraway places, standing in line for hours, just to view the image of the Madonna.

Our last stop before Warsaw was Nieborów Palace, about an hour outside the city. This unadulterated Baroque palace bursts with hundreds of years of noble history. Built in the 1600s by Tylman van Gameren—Poland’s most prolific Baroque architect—Nieborów is one of the best-preserved palaces in Poland.

Never ransacked during WWII, it now serves as a museum of palace interiors, filled with portraits of eminent personalities, thousands of drawings and sketches, books from the 16th century, porcelain, textiles, and original décor.

After viewing the palace, we strolled through the sprawling gardens, imagining what life might have been like as a Polish nobleman.

Before continuing our drive, we enjoyed a pastry.

Once in Warsaw, we checked into our apartment and took a walk along the Vistula River. From our side we could see the bridge and football stadium.

At last, it was time to call it a day. We accomplished a lot. Ms. Maggie was very pleased with her planning, and Karen Sue was happy she decided to tag along.

Day 1 – Warsaw, Poland

Today was our first day in Warsaw, Poland. Marta, the neighbor of the Airbnb we rented, happens to be a licensed tour guide. She offered to show us some of the highlights of both the Old City and the New City.

We met Marta at the Copernicus Statue. Copernicus was the first person to define the solar system—or at least that is his claim to fame.

As you look at these pictures, remember that 90% of Warsaw was destroyed during World War II. Most of what you see today has been rebuilt since then.

We visited the oldest church in Warsaw. When I say “oldest,” I mean the site of the original church. The building we toured was reconstructed after the war but designed to look like the original.

Buried inside this church is the heart of Frédéric François Chopin. He was born in Poland but lived most of his life in France. He requested that his heart be buried in this church. His body rests in France, but before his burial, his heart was removed and sent to Warsaw for a separate resting place.

The area we walked through is now mostly part of Warsaw University. Many of the university buildings were originally palaces for noble families.

There are many churches in Warsaw, and we visited quite a few of them. We also learned where the term “stinking rich” came from. When a noble or wealthy person died, they were laid to rest inside the church. Over time, their corpse would begin to smell. The poor, however, were buried outside the church.

Next, we stopped at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

We then visited a hotel that was not destroyed during the war. The reason for the stop was to see a wall listing the many famous people who have stayed there. If you zoom in on the photos, you can recognize several of the names.

We continued through the Old Town, where the original royal palace now houses an art museum.

We also stepped into another church to see a mass in progress. It was Sunday, after all, but Marta told us that almost any day, at almost any time, you can find a Catholic mass being celebrated somewhere in the city.

We stopped at a square featuring a statue of a mermaid. Why a mermaid? Because it is the symbol of Warsaw. Legend says that a sea creature crawled out onto the banks of the Vistula River and, over time, transformed into a mermaid carrying a sword and shield.

We exited the Old City through the protective gate and entered the New City. Other than the gate, the two areas look very similar.

We reached the monument to the Warsaw Uprising, which commemorates when the Polish rose up against the Germans. The Polish resistance had little chance of success, and the Russians stood by and watched as the Poles were slaughtered.

One of our last stops was a marker showing where the wall of the Jewish Ghetto once stood.

By then, it was time for ice cream.

We still had a few hours before our next adventure: a tour of the E. Wedel Chocolate Factory, the oldest chocolate factory in Europe.

If you’ve ever eaten Wedel chocolate, it came from this factory, which ships to more than 50 countries.

We toured the factory, ate plenty of chocolate, and learned a lot about both the history of chocolate and the company itself.

By 7:30 p.m. we walked back across the river to our apartment.

Tomorrow brings another day in Warsaw.

Warsaw – Last Day

Today is our last day in Warsaw. Besides our walk to the E. Wedel chocolate factory, we also spent time on the east side of the Vistula River. We joined a walking tour of Praga, the neighborhood across the river from central Warsaw. The tour was called Alternative Warsaw.

We met in front of Saint Florian’s Cathedral.

Our guide gave us a brief and cynical history of Poland. His storytelling helped put a lot of the history we had already learned into better context. I should have recorded him—his descriptions made so much sense compared to the dry, factual versions told by historians.

As we walked through Praga, we learned that while it was bombed in the war, much of the destruction came later. During communist times, many of the more elaborate buildings had their ornate facades removed. Why? Because under communism there were no rich and poor—only poor and poorer (more cynicism).

Walking around Praga today, you see many plain brick buildings, but also some beautifully restored facades. Since the end of communism, the government has worked with building owners (sometimes with a little bribery involved—again, cynicism) to restore the original designs.

Praga was once riddled with crime and gangs, but now it’s as safe as the rest of Warsaw. It was a fascinating tour, and while I learned more than I can write here, as with most tours, I didn’t retain as much as I’d like. Karen Sue and I rewarded ourselves afterward with ice cream.

That afternoon we joined a bike tour of Warsaw. We cycled past modern skyscrapers and stopped at one massive, ornate building from the communist era—Stalin’s Palace. Today, it serves as offices and has recreational facilities for children. Our guide told us he learned how to swim in its Olympic-sized indoor pool.

We also visited another section of the Jewish Ghetto. This one had a church, where newborn babies were secretly smuggled out to safety. Parents gave up their children knowing it was better than the horrific alternatives: Dr. Josef Mengele’s experiments or death.

We rode along the river and stopped by another statue of the mermaid, Warsaw’s symbol.

Then we saw the grand front façade of the Palace (much more impressive than the back side we’d seen the day before).

Our final stop was a statue of Maria Skłodowska-Curie—better known as Madame Curie—who was born here in Warsaw.

That evening, being our last in Warsaw, we celebrated with cocktails. We chose Porn Star Martinis as our farewell drink.

Drive to Gdańsk.

The next morning, we drove to Gdańsk, with two stops along the way planned by Ms. Maggie.

The first was Toruń, one of Poland’s best-kept secrets. Its medieval center survived WWII intact and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Toruń is also the birthplace of Copernicus, the astronomer who proved the sun—not the earth—was the center of the universe. The town has a statue and university in his honor.

Because Toruń wasn’t destroyed, it gave us a good sense of how Warsaw looked before reconstruction, with similar architecture. Toruń is also famous for its gingerbread, made here since the 13th century. Originally used as medicine, it’s still made today. Naturally, we stopped for a pastry before leaving.

Our next stop was Malbork Castle, a throwback to Poland’s Middle Ages. This enormous brick fortress, another UNESCO site, was built by the Teutonic Knights and served as their headquarters. Although more than half the castle was destroyed in WWII, restoration has continued for 230 years, and it remains breathtaking with its drawbridges, high walls, and vaulted halls.

Unfortunately, we only had 30 minutes to explore (three hours is the minimum recommended) because of our car return deadline in Gdańsk. We reached the city at 3:00 p.m., dropped off the car, checked into our apartment, and treated ourselves to a well-deserved shot after the long drive.

That evening we wandered the main town of Gdańsk, enjoyed a few drinks (yes, more Porn Star Martinis), and called it a night.

Gdańsk – One Day Visit

With only one day in Gdańsk, we hired Sebastian, a local expert. The main goal of our visit was for Ms. Maggie and Margarite to swim in the frigid waters of the Baltic Sea—but more on that later.

After breakfast, we headed to Westerplatte, the peninsula where WWII began when Germany attacked Poland. We visited the ruins of a barracks where 220 Polish soldiers held off the Germans for seven days, even though they weren’t expected to last 12 hours.

Next, Sebastian brought us to a beach where Ms. Maggie and Margarite took their chilly swim.

We rewarded ourselves afterward with a beer and some Żurek—a traditional sour rye soup made with fermented rye flour, vegetables, and sometimes potatoes or sausage.

We then went to Sopot, known as the Riviera of Poland, with its luxury resorts and sandy beaches. Later, back in Gdańsk, we paused at a church famous for its daily 20-minute organ concert—a perfect short break to enjoy music.

Our tour continued at the Gdańsk Shipyard, birthplace of the Solidarity movement. Ten million Poles united here against the communist government. Though martial law was later declared and many leaders arrested, the movement ultimately prevailed after the Soviet collapse.

At St. Bridget’s Church, we saw the famous Amber Altar, carved from fossilized pine resin. More importantly, this was a secret meeting place for Solidarity leaders—until communists discovered it and killed the priest.

Sebastian suggested one final stop: Gdańsk’s largest church. At one point, Lutherans painted over its frescoes with whitewash; now, the Catholic Church is restoring them. Visitors can also climb the bell tower for sweeping views of the city.

Afterward, it was time for drinks. We tried Goldwasser, Gdańsk’s signature liqueur with floating gold flakes, created centuries ago by a Mennonite. Smooth and enjoyable.

We ended the night with a shot and some ice cream.

Next stop Poznań.

This morning we’re taking the train to our final city in Poland: Poznań. More on that visit to come.

A Few Hours in Poznań

We took the train from Gdańsk to Poznań, a ride of about two and a half hours, and planned a four-hour stopover. A good friend, Wictor (Victor), lives in Poznań and offered to show us around.

Wictor shared some history of the city. Like much of Poland, Poznań has shifted hands many times over the centuries—from Poland, to Prussia (Germany), to disappearing altogether, back to Poland, then Russia, and finally to Poland again.

Our first stop was the castle, built back when Prussia controlled the area.

Next, we visited the 1956 memorial, which honors the workers’ strike during communist times. The strikers were brutally suppressed by the communist military. The monument also lists other strikes that took place across Poland during that period.

We continued our walk through the city, admiring the architecture. Most of it had to be reconstructed after World War II. Many of the buildings, now theaters and museums, had been used by the Nazis during the war and later by the communists during the occupation.

We stopped at Freedom Square and the Freedom Fountain before heading to the Town Hall at noon to see the famous goats.

Each day at noon and 3:00 PM, two mechanical goats emerge from the City Hall clock tower to butt heads. Legends surround the goats, but as Wictor explained, none are true. Still, they attract hundreds of visitors for each “battle,” so the tradition lives on.

Video – Goats of Poznań

Afterward, we stopped for lunch.

I even “rode some goats” and realized all the ice cream I’ve been eating has made me fatter—and shorter!

We ended our visit at the largest church in the area before heading back to the train station to continue our journey—this time to Germany. Not a new country for me, but always worth visiting.

A Few Thoughts on Poland:

You won’t find a safer country to travel in.
Give yourself more time than you think you need. I wish I had another week here.
You will not be disappointed in your adventure to Poland.

While in Poznań we picked up some croissants filled with cream and nuts—Poznań is famous for these treats. We enjoyed them on the train ride to Berlin.

Now—on to Berlin.

Berlin

We arrived in Berlin just past 6:00 pm.

The next day we had two bike tours planned. The first was called Highlights of Berlin.

Our first stop—you guessed it—was the Berlin Wall Monument, or rather what’s left of it. Most of the wall was demolished, and today only markers run through the city showing where it once stood. At Checkpoint Charlie, however, several meters of the original wall remain.

There were actually two walls: an inner and outer wall with booby traps in between. The communist government told East Berliners this was to prevent people from jumping in from the West. In reality, of course, it was built to stop East Berliners from escaping to the West.

From there, we rode to a Holocaust memorial erected in what was once a Jewish neighborhood. The site had been home to a Jewish school and cemetery before the war. All the Jews in the area were deported to concentration camps in Poland.

We then passed the New Synagogue. Despite its name, it was built more than a hundred years ago. A high-ranking Nazi officer admired the architecture, which spared it from destruction. Though damaged during Allied bombings, it has since been beautifully restored.

Crossing the river, we explored what had been East Berlin during the Cold War. We stopped at a palace from Prussian times. Over the years, successive governments repeatedly tore it down and rebuilt it in their own image.

After reunification, the Soviet-era building was demolished and replaced with a replica of the original Prussian palace. The current structure is only a few years old, but its façade was designed to look centuries old.

Another sobering stop was the square where one of the largest Nazi book burnings took place. On May 10, 1933, Nazi students organized public book burnings across Germany in the “Action against the Un-German Spirit.” Thousands of works by Jewish, pacifist, Marxist, and other authors were destroyed. A haunting memorial of empty bookshelves reminds visitors of the cultural void left behind.

Banning and burning books, silencing critics—these were the first signs of fascism. It must never happen again.

And then—guess who showed up? Hot Spot! He was in Berlin for the marathon and tracked us down to join the tour.

We also visited the memorial dedicated to all who died at the hands of Adolf Hitler. The artist never explained the meaning of the design, leaving interpretation to each visitor.

Other sights included the American Embassy and a massive above-ground bunker (which we’d see more of later).

In the afternoon, we joined the Alternative Berlin Bike Tour, which took us into the city’s grittier, underground side.

We ended the day with a nice dinner and called it a night.

The following morning, we started with a short run, enjoying the sunrise lighting up the buildings.

After grabbing some delicious Cinnabons, we wandered the city until our 3:00 pm tour.

This time we explored Berlin’s bunkers. The underground bunker tour led us deep below the city, through thick concrete walls built to hold thousands during air raids—though in reality, many were crammed with tens of thousands. While the tour was fascinating, there was too much unrelated talk and not enough about the bunkers themselves. Photography was also prohibited, which was disappointing.

During Hitler’s rule, over a thousand bunkers were constructed—most underground, some above ground.

Our final stop was one of the above-ground bunkers: now home to the Boros Collection (boros-collection.com). A husband-and-wife team purchased the bunker, built their home on its roof, and converted the five floors below into a remarkable contemporary art museum. The contrast between the heavy concrete structure and the art was stunning. Visiting is only possible with reserved tickets and a private guide, but it’s well worth it.

Leaving the Boros Collection, we saw the Berlin TV Tower lit up against the night sky. Built in the 1960s by the Soviets to showcase their innovation, it still dominates the skyline with its observation deck and revolving restaurant.

One last note: Berlin is not the city for ice cream. In 48 hours, I didn’t find a single shop worth visiting. Still, in the name of tradition, I sacrificed and had a scoop—though I broke my rule of always getting two. One was enough.